This is a work in progress pattern, please contact me if you have any issues and we can sort them out
Fair Isle Jumper
This is a loose fitting, striking design with dropped shoulders and a round neck. Made better with a fair isle highlight that uses no more than three colours per section to keep it simple and beginner friendly. This jumper is worked from the bottom up, and then sleeves are worked from wrist to shoulder and sewn to the body. Instructions are given for working in the round, as well as working flat and sewing up. Notes include a few extra tips and tricks, as well as ways to personalise your jumper to your own tastes and extra sleeves.
I wrote this as a way of distracting myself, following the heartbreaking miscarriage of our very wanted baby. I thought I could build something beautiful and meaningful out of my hurt.
Please read the pattern in full before starting, and check out the notes section at the end. If you find something a bit weird, please contact me, I am always grateful for feedback on patterns.
Sizes
| Extra Small | Small | Medium | Large | Extra Large | XXL | |
| Bust measurement | (Pending) 70cm | 86cm (34 in) | 91cm (36 in) | 97cm (38 in) | 115cm (45in) | (Pending) 130cm |
| Finished size | x | 94cm (37) | 101cm (40) | 110cm (44in) | 135cm (53in) | x |
Materials
3.25mm and 4mm needles, either circular or flat depending on preference. Darning needle.
Main background colour. Two to four 100g (600-900m) balls of DK. Main colour, MC.
Contrast colour A, two 100g (600m) balls of DK.
Contrast colours 100g (300m) of DK in four different colours. Colours B, C, D, & E.
All lists are approximate, and you may use more or less yarn depending on your tension.
For my test I am using Deramores Studio. As colour MC I have a darker denim blue. Contrast colour A I have a lovely forest green. I haven’t fully settled on the colours of B, C, D, & E. I have used stash yarn, but the entire jumper is being worked with DK acrylic-based materials.
Tension
22 stitches and 28 rows for a 10cm x 10cm square on 4mm needles.
If you want to change the size slightly you can swap needles up or down, to create a tighter knit, smaller jumper, or a looser knit, larger one. For example, using 4ply yarn and 3mm needles will give you a jumper closer in size to a child’s. Using 5mm needles and DK with give you a looser, but larger jumper. Using 7mm needles and chunky will give you a much larger jumper. Play around, find out.
Working in the round
Body
Continue to work in k1, p1 rib as stitches present for a total of 24 rows.
Change to 4mm needles. Knit 2 (4, 6, 8) rounds in MC.
Use stitch markers to mark the side stitches, which are worked in the current background color, not in pattern.
S – 3 each side, 6 side stitches, 2 before and 1 after each marker.
M – 11 each side, 22 side stitches. 5 before and 6 after each marker
L – 19 each side, 38 side stitches, 9 before and 10 after each marker.
XL 32 each side, 64 side stitches, 16 before and 16 after each marker.
Work chart 1, in each of your contrast colours, it doesn’t matter the order of your colours as it is the same pattern four times over.
Knit 0 (1, 2, 3) rounds in MC.
Side stitches are worked in the current background color, not in pattern.
Work chart 2 with MC and CCB. Break MC at the end of chart 2.
Knit 1 (3, 5, 7) rounds in CCB.
K1 CCB, K1 CCC to end. Break CCB.
Knit 1 (2, 3, 4) rounds CCC.
Work chart 3 with CCC and CCD. Once you’ve done round 8 of chart 3 break CCC and join CCB, continuing to work as charted.
Knit 0 (1, 2, 3) rounds in CCB.
K1 CCB, K1 CCE.
K1 round CCE.
K1 CCE, K1 CCC.
Work Star chart, chart 4 using CCE for the star details, and CCC as the first background colour, then switch to CCB, and back to CCC as indicated on the chart.
At the end of Chart 4 check the length of the jumper for your body, if you’re happy with it divide for front now. If not, improvise by working in the round for a bit longer. If you want a longer body keep working until desired length.
Separate front and back
Back
In the pattern of K1 CCE, K1 CCC, cast off 4, pattern to end
With CCE, cast off 4, pattern to end
K1 CCB, K1 CCE.
Knit 0 (1, 2, 3) rounds in CCB.
Work chart 3 with CCC and CCB. Once you’ve done round 8 of chart 3 break CCC and join CCD, continuing to work as charted.
Knit 1 (2, 3, 4) rounds CCC.
K1 CCC, K1 CCB to end. Break CCC.
Knit 1 (3, 5, 7) rows in CCB.
Work chart 2 with CCB and MC. Break CCB at the end of chart 2.
Check the back length, it should come up to 1.5cm below your neck. Continue working in patterns until desired length is reached then
Work here?
Cast off 32 (38, 40, XL) pattern to end
Cast off 32 (38, 40, XL). Place 43 stitches on holder for neck.
Front
In the pattern of K1 CCE, K1 CCC, cast off 4, pattern to end
With CCE, cast off 4, pattern to end
K1 CCB, K1 CCE.
Knit 0 (1, 2, 3) rounds in CCB.
Work chart 3 with CCC and CCB. Once you’ve done round 8 of chart 3 break CCC and join CCD, continuing to work as charted.
Knit 1 (2, 3, 4) rounds CCC.
K1 CCC, K1 CCB to end. Break CCC.
Knit 1 (3, 5, 7) rows in CCB.
Work chart 2 with CCB and MC. Break CCB at the end of chart 2.
Divide left and right fronts
Left
**Double check I haven’t got this mirrored as I always do this**
**Should be 32 rows in this section.**
Pattern 56 (60, 64, XL), turn work and continue to work on shoulder
Cast off 4 stithces for arm hole, continue in pattern.
Slip 1, p2tog, at neck edge pattern to end. K1 row for 10 rows,
Pattern 5 more rows, cast off.
Neck
Place 11 stittches on holder for neckline
Right
Place Pattern 56 (60, 64, XL) back on active needle.
Pattern to end
Cast off four stitches for armhole, pattern to end
Slip 1, k2tog, at neck edge pattern to end. P1 row for 10 rows.
Pattern 5 more rows, cast off.
Neck band
Join shoulder seams.
With RS facing, using 3.25mm needles pick up 30 stitches from left front edge, knit 11 stitches from centre front of jumper, pick up 30 stitches from right front, knit across 43 stitches from centre back of jumper. 114 stitches total.
Work 8 rounds in K1, P1 rib. Cast off.